BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju <p>BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera <em>publish</em>.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> en-US indarti@unesa.ac.id (Indarti) indarti@unesa.ac.id (Indarti) Fri, 08 Dec 2023 03:12:48 +0000 OJS 3.1.1.0 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss 60 Stilasi Tanaman Carica sebagai Sumber Ide Motif Batik https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/52933 <p><em>Stylization is a process of changing shape by looking at objects from various directions with stylization so as to create new motifs that are more varied and innovative without losing the characteristics of the source of the idea itself. Carica plants have contrasting colors between the leaves, fruit and stems. The large, shiny green leaves contrast with the bright yellow or orange fruit, making the carica plant look attractive and alluring to those who see it. This study aims to determine 1) the process of creating batik motifs using stylization techniques, 2) the results of stylized motifs applied to batik cloth. The method used is the Double Diamond Model which consists of 4 stages, namely: discover (find the uniqueness of the carica plant and the characteristics of the carica batik motif), define (summarize the findings in the form of a moodboard as the basis for making designs), develop (realize ideas by making stylized and batik designs by using the source of the idea of the carica plant), and deliver (production of carica motif batik cloth). This research resulted in 10 designs of carica batik motifs, and of the 10 designs, 1 design was selected which was embodied in the form of carica batik cloth.</em></p> Brilliant Angellia Jhundy, Urip Wahyuningsih ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/52933 Fri, 08 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000 APLIKASI BORDIR KOMPUTER 3 DIMENSI PADA GAUN MALAM DENGAN SUMBER IDE ILALANG https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/36045 <p><em>Weeds or lying grass are often considered nuisance plants or weeds, because they easily grow anywhere on empty land. The purpose of writing this article is: (1) to describe the process of making 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications on evening dresses; (2) to describe the process of applying 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications to evening gowns; and (3) to describe the finished results of the application of 3-dimensional computer embroidery on evening gowns. Weeds can be used as a source of ideas for making a three-piece evening gown consisting of a jumpsuit, outer dress and layered skirt using fabric manipulation using a 3-dimensional computer embroidery application as a transition source for weed ideas. Computer embroidery is the newest technology today so that the process is easier and faster according to the desired design. The work engineering method starts from determining the source of ideas in the form of a moodboard, planning colors and materials, designing dresses, the process of making evening dresses, the process of making 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications starting with creating motif designs on the computer and then applying them to evening dresses. The results of changing evening gowns using fabric manipulation using 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications produce clothing that looks real, beautiful, and elegant.</em></p> Inas Mutiara Dewi, Yulistiana Yulistiana ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/36045 Fri, 08 Dec 2023 05:44:14 +0000 Penciptaan Busana Pesta Malam dengan Sumber Ide Bunga Aster https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/54983 <p><em>Daisies are often referred to as stars, have many types of colors that make anyone stunned to see them. With its beauty, daisies are used as a source of ideas for the creation of a collection of evening party dresses. This study aims to determine the process of creating an evening party dress design with the source of the daisy flower idea. This research method uses the Double Diamond Design Process, which is divided into 4 stages, including discover, which is an exploration of the theme discussed in this study, namely "daisies" in which the appearance of a star-like flower figure, strands of daisies are in the shape of a circle, ranging from round to shaped like a disc. . The results obtained from applying the source of ideas to a work in the form of a moodboard. The define stage, from the results of the moodboard then makes 10 design developments. The develop stage is the stage of choosing 2 designs to be realized according to the inspiration pictures that emerged from the source of ideas to be realized in the draping pattern technique using medium size on dressfoam. The deliver stage is the process of making the details of the daisy-shaped decoration taken from the shape of the daisy crown by cutting staples according to the pattern, pressed with a satin/organza cloth to make flower crown strands and finally decorated with sequins and arranging the lace on the dress that has been given sequins and stabbed tracks. The results of the research are the finished clothes using the drapping technique and the manufacture of decorative details according to the source of ideas that apply the design principles of the center of interest and proportions.</em></p> Indana Rufaydah ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/54983 Mon, 11 Dec 2023 13:55:37 +0000 Eksplorasi Tabebuya sebagai Sumber Ide pada Desain Motif Batik Tanah Unesa https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55025 <p><em>Tabebuya has a distinctive beauty, attractive shapes and colors that can be applied in Unesa soil batik coloring. This research uses the Double Diamond approach. This method consists of 4 stages Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver. In the early stages of identifying the facts of the problem in the form of a lack of development of Surabaya city flora motifs in Batik Tanah Unesa. The second stage, analyzing researchers who have been identified at the discovery stage is in the form of a moodboard. The third stage, embodiment where the design idea has been generated will be shaped into a work. Followed by the last stage of the manufacturing stage and design selection from the solutions that have been obtained from the previous stage. The process of developing motifs starts with preparing tools and materials, then the process is drawing designs on paper, followed by tracing on cloth, and on batik so that the finished result appears on the cloth. The result of the expected batik motif is the result of the batik motif in accordance with the size of the motif design, starting from the main, supporting, and isen motifs according to the source of the Tabebuia idea.</em></p> Zulfika Rochmawati, Irma Russanti ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55025 Tue, 12 Dec 2023 01:07:57 +0000 Kupu-kupu dengan Laser Cut sebagai Sumber Ide Penciptaan Busana Pesta https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55628 <p><em>Butterfly has a unique beauty, this unique beauty makes those who see it interested. The purpose of this research is to describe the process of making and finished dresses with the source of the idea, namely butterflies, using the laser cut technique. This research method uses a three stages design process approach or three stages of the design process. This method consists of 3 stages of research: problem definition and research, creative exploration and implementation. In the early stages of determining the design direction, namely making women's dresses with butterfly inspiration made for young women with the art of beat type. In the second stage, the researcher made a moodboard and developed 10 sketch designs for dresses in the form of one piece dresses. The two selected designs were created using construction and draping patterns. The implementation stage is by applying laser cut butterflies and ruffles as the center of interest in the party dress. The process of making a laser cut starts from preparing the leather jahard fabric that has been laser cut in the shape of a butterfly, then it is pinned according to the design. The result of the party dress is as expected, namely a dress that can fit the body properly for an art of beat type woman and applies laser cut decoration and ruffles certain parts that apply the center of interest design principle.</em></p> Nisa El Jinan, Urip Wahyuningsih ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55628 Sat, 16 Dec 2023 01:59:32 +0000 Tumbuhan Lotus sebagai Inspirasi Pembuatan Motif Digital Printing Outerwear Zero Waste https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55075 <p><em>The research objective was to find out the finished product of making the outer using the zero waste concept with decorative motifs inspired by the lotus applied to the fabric using digital printing techniques. Pattern making using the zero waste concept was chosen because, the increasing production of ready-to-wear clothes makes the industry produce more textile which can have a negative impact on the environment due to excessive waste disposal. Lotus as a motif on the outer has the local name seroja classified in the family (Nelumboceae), is a plant that lives in water and originates from India, however, the existence of the lotus plant grows almost in Asian countries such as China, Thailand and others. The lotus is often referred to as a waterlily even though it has differences in shape and how it grows, a lotus that grows with flowers rising from the bottom of the water does not float above the water like a lotus. As time goes on, making decorative motifs uses more modern techniques or are called with digital printing techniques. Motifs from the lotus inspiration are applied to cloth using digital printing techniques to speed up the process of embodiment of motifs on cloth.</em></p> Fiqrotun Nabilah, Ratna Suhartini ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/55075 Sat, 16 Dec 2023 04:00:58 +0000 Pewarnaan Alami Benang Katun Menggunakan Angkak (Monascus Purpureus) https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/56204 <p><em>Natural dyes can be obtained from plants, animals, minerals, and microorganisms. The microorganism that has the ability to produce pigment is Monascus Purpureus. Angkak, or Monascus purpureus, is the result of the fermentation of rice with the mushroom Monascus Sp. Monascus purpureus mushrooms can produce large amounts of carotenoid pigment, resulting in a red colour. Angkak is often used as a traditional medicine, a food base, and especially as a natural food colourant. However, the knowledge and application of natural dyeing for textiles are still very rare, especially on cotton yarn. This research refers to experimental methods carried out based on data collection in the form of literary studies, trials, observations, and interviews. The process of natural colouring cotton ropes with angkak is carried out in several stages and using several techniques. The natural colouring of the cotton yarn produces varying nude colours. The study resulted in 16 colour variations of 16 combinations of mordant and fixation materials. The results of this study can provide more insight into the natural colouring potential of cotton, thus making it an environmentally friendly and sustainable textile colouring alternative in the textile industry.</em></p> Syafira Tasya Yuditira, Ratna Endah Santoso ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/56204 Fri, 29 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000 Pembuatan Dress Korset Cheongsam Era Renaissance Dengan Aplikasi Bordir 3D https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/53565 <p><em>Cheongsam is a traditional Chinese garment also known as qipao. The purpose of this research is to describe the process of creating a Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D embroidery application and to describe the final result of the Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D application. The research method used is the creative work method, which includes pre-design, design, realization, and presentation. In the pre-design stage, the source of inspiration used is the traditional Chinese garment, the cheongsam, combined with Renaissance corset design. The main fabric used is duchess satin, with tricot used as interlining to provide stability to the corset. In the realization stage, the design of the cheongsam corset dress is implemented into a fashion piece through processes such as measurement taking, pattern making, fabric cutting, and sewing. The garment is adorned with 3D embroidery application and sequins. The presentation stage is conducted through a seminar, describing the process of creation and the final result of the Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress. The result of this research is a Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D embroidery application that combines traditional Chinese design with Renaissance corset design. This research contributes to the development of cheongsam fashion design through the application of 3D embroidery technique.</em></p> Jihan Bilqis, Deny Arifiana ##submission.copyrightStatement## https://ejournal.unesa.ac.id/index.php/baju/article/view/53565 Fri, 29 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000